Sam Sifton emails readers of Cooking five days a week to talk about food and suggest recipes. That email also appears here. To receive it in your inbox, register here. Download the NYT Cooking app here.
Good morning. How’d it go? Turkey perfect? Gravy silken? Potatoes cloudlike? Stuffing crisp? Pies like magic? You need to break up a fight between Uncle Nestor and your cousin’s new boyfriend over some pass-interference call in the Giants-Redskins game? (That fight wasn’t about football.) Thanksgiving’s over now, and we’re thankful for that, if only because leftovers, for many of us, are the best part of the holiday.
Tejal Rao wrote about leftovers for The Times this week, and brought three great recipes onto the radar for the next few days. You might try her turkey salad with fried shallots and herbs, adapted from a Burmese chicken salad recipe by Naomi Duguid.
But her roast turkey pav isn’t shabby, at all. It’s adapted from the pav bhaji of western India, a spiced mash of vegetables and diced turkey meat, served with buttery, toasted buns. That’s a brilliant lunch.
Or, if you’re down to carcass and stock, try her recipe for turkey and noodles, a Southern-style thickened broth over thick, yolk-rich noodles that are close to dumplings in texture.
I got in on the leftovers game as well this week, with an “Eat” column on the joys of turkey and cream sauce, and the pains of extroversion. My recipe, for turkey à la king, is a model of nursery food in the tradition of threadbare luxury hotels and Cheever-reading home dining rooms, soft and creamy, salty-sweet. It sits happily atop toast or biscuits, rice or waffles, noodles or, in some households, wrapped within crepes: leftover turkey in gravy, essentially, with mushrooms and peas for heft. (If you’re feeling fancy, fold some turkey- or chicken-liver pate into the sauce as well.
We have so many Thanksgiving leftovers ideas. You could make Samin Nosrat’s recipe for turkey tikka masala. Or David Tanis’s recipe for turkey pie with potatoes, squash, chard and Cheddar. I love Margaux Laskey’s new recipe for stacked Thanksgiving-leftover enchiladas, a fun project to share with children. And you can never, ever go wrong with Nigella Lawson’s recipe for bang bang turkey.
How about turkey hash? Or turkey mole verde? I’m definitely going to make roasted turkey stock this weekend, then use it for a turkey gumbo cooked in the no-recipe recipe style of that great sage of South Louisiana, Pableaux Johnson. (Here’s the recipe.)
Thousands and thousands of other recipes are waiting for you at NYT Cooking. Just sign up for a subscription to access them, a transaction that we’ll repay with yet more recipes and yet more reporting on the state of the delicious at home and abroad. You can set up a recipe box to fill with the dishes you want to make (wherever the recipes come from), and you can organize them as you see fit, in folders devoted to the subjects or foodstuffs of your choice. Share what you find with family and friends and, once you’ve cooked the food, rate the recipes and leave notes on them to let us all know how you made out.
If anything goes sideways, please reach out for help. We’re at firstname.lastname@example.org if you have queries about the recipes or technology. I’m at email@example.com if you have questions about our philosophy or culture, or if you want to complain (or cheer!) about this newsletter or the fellow who writes it. You can also find us on social media, where we post on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. (I’m @samsifton, myself.)
Now, as the nation turns its attention to shopping and eggnog in the run-up to the end of the year, please be aware that you can now buy gift subscriptions to NYT Cooking. Also, you can buy a printed edition of Melissa Clark’s “New Essentials of French Cuisine,” an actual book! (Soon, perhaps, we’ll add aprons and hoodies, or branded salts and parsnips. Stay tuned!) And maybe you’d like to check out The Times’s 2017 Holiday Gift Guide? There are some pretty fine ideas for presents in there.
But don’t get too wrapped up in all that cheer. There’s “Ramp Hollow: The Ordeal of Appalachia” to read, Steven Stoll’s new book about the tragedy of West Virginia, reviewed this week by my colleague Dwight Garner. Dwight mentions John Knowles’s “A Vein of Riches” at the start of his review. You might want to start there, or follow the Stoll with it as a chaser.
Then, you might want to read Kati Marton on Meryl Streep, in Vogue, which includes a super-weird video interview between Streep and Anna Wintour, Vogue’s editor, whom Streep famously played in “The Devil Wears Prada.” Fun.
And finally, just so we’re clear, Preet Bharara is not running for office. Not yet. Do read Dan Amira’s “Talk” column for The New York Times Magazine. See you on Sunday.
by Sam Sifton – nytimes.com